Passage De Monetier, A Not So Secret Passage

Posted on December 6, 2012 by Schwingen In Switzerland

is an historical passage in Geneva’s old town. You enter at the top of the Rue du Perron (by No. 19) and exit off the alley Monetier, at the base of the old ramparts. The passage zig zags between medieval buildings for around 100 meters (328 feet), narrowing to 50 cm (20 inches)!

Courtesy of Wikipedia

Given layout between residential buildings, darkness and narrowness, it’s not surprising that this secret passage is open to the public only during the last two days of Geneva’s Escalade festivities. The rest of the year, it is closed. Get in on the action this weekend while you still can!

Occupied since Roman times, Geneva is ancient. Over time, Geneva grew and extended its fortifications. The passage began as a simple path between early fortifications sometime during the 600-1100 A.D. that protected the hill of Saint-Pierre (on which Cathedral St. Pierre sits).

In the Middle Ages buildings weren’t glued to each other. As new fortifications and buildings were built, Passage Monetier became a passage or alley. It took on its current route around 1300-1400 A.D. and allows access from one neighborhood to another without detours. Without indoor plumbing alleys served as an open sewers and it probably didn’t smell great.

The Savoyards came along the Aarve River, assembled at Plainpalais and attacked from the back of the city.

There’s an urban myth that says the passage had something to do with the surprise attack by Savoyard troops sent by Charles Emmanuel I, Duke of Savoy during the night of 11–12 December 1602 to attack Geneva. Alas, it is just that, a myth. Neither attacks, nor the battle that night took place near there. Its opening merely serves as one of the festivities comprising L’Escalade festival which celebrates Geneva’s win and usually occurs in 12th of December.

L’Escalade à Genève, 1602. The Escalade in Geneva in 1602. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

A Weekend From 1602: Celebrating Geneva’s l’Escalade (livingingeneva.wordpress.com)

Not Venice, Vence

Posted on May 31, 2012 by Schwingen In Switzerland

Three kilometers up the road from St. Paul-de-Vence, through the hills northwest of Nice, past cypress and olive trees there is another beautiful, town perched on a summit. Vence is a bit larger (and a bit more relaxed). Although we didn’t do any shopping, its shops and art galleries are more affordable. Locals (not only busloads of tourists) actually eat at its cafés.

Vence looks like an old medieval walled town, but underneath its ramparts it is really a Roman one. A section of the old Roman road cuts through the center of town. The road, the Rue des Portiques ran right next to our hotel. I couldn’t believe that nearby stones dated from the 2nd century. Its cathedral, the Eglise de la Conversion de Saint Paul, is built on the site of a Roman temple dedicated to the god Mars.

We checked into our hotel and were astounded to learn our hotel room had a rooftop terrace. This was our view! I went crazy snapping pictures up there. We explored the medieval streets, patinaed squares and admired the Provençal architecture.

In Place du Peyra, the urn-shaped Vieille Fontaine is often photographed. I liked how the mineral content and source of the water was mounted in the ancient city wall. It tasted pretty good too.

After spending the last two days avoiding the crowds in Cannes, Antibes, Villefranche, Nice, Eze and St. Paul-de-Vence, it was a treat to sit a cafe and eat at a restaurant with locals. The “local” below became really friendly once our snacks were delivered. Believe or not, the puffs were actually peanut butter flavored! In France! We couldn’t believe it. It was so nice having a dog around that we got permission to give him a bit of cheese. He even did a couple of tricks for us.

Vence’s only disappointment was that the Matisse Chapel (Chapelle du Rosaire de Vence) was closed. If you want to visit, be sure to check the opening hours. The nuns who run it have better things to do than cater to sweaty tourists like us.

Take It Eze-y, The Cote D’Azur Town Of Eze (schwingeninswitzerland.wordpress.com)
Villefranche, Oui, S’Il Vous Plaît (schwingeninswitzerland.wordpress.com)
So I Got That Goin’ For Me, Which Is Nice (schwingeninswitzerland.wordpress.com)
Picasso, Yachts And Ramparts In Antibes (schwingeninswitzerland.wordpress.com)
We Took The High Road – La Grande Corniche (schwingeninswitzerland.wordpress.com)
Everyone Loves St.-Paul-de-Vence (schwingeninswitzerland.wordpress.com)

Thun, Worth Making A Stop On The Way To Interlaken

Posted on April 18, 2012 by Schwingen In Switzerland

We’d passed by Thun, before. It’s on the way to Interlaken and we’d heard there was a castle there. We’d just never stopped to see it. Last weekend was a long weekend so we weren’t on as much of a schedule. Someone at his work told him that the town merited a stop and a stroll. They were right.

The most important things to know about Thun are:

It is located on the Aare River at the lower end of Lake Thun.
The historic Old Town and the newer cafes and restaurants on the river are pretty freaking cute.
Of course it has a castle because no self-respecting cute Swiss town would be could dead without one.
The distance between the aforementioned castle is short, but very steep. Welcome to the Bernese Oberland.

It sounds nice, but is pretty standard for Switzerland.

We found Thun to be unique with interesting features that make it one of the better Swiss towns.

The main shopping thoroughfare boasts terraced sidewalks built on the roofs of the stores’ first floors. You can stroll the upper level or climb down stone stairs to visit the “sunken” street-level shops.