America’s Cup Winners from a Landlocked Country

Posted on September 27, 2013 by Schwingen In Switzerland

Switzerland has many large beautiful lakes surrounded by mountains. Even though it is a landlocked country, the Swiss can sail. They had a team, Alinghi, win the America’s Cup in 2003 and 2007. They sail on Lac Leman, the lake on which Geneva is situated.

Alinghi is the syndicate set up by Ernesto Bertarelli, racing under the colors of the Société Nautique de Genève. They set it up “to win the America’s Cup, while earning respect and recognition as a world-class sports team as well as sharing our passion”. Not surprisingly, not all the team was Swiss. They hired Russell Coutts, the successful skipper and helmsman of Team New Zealand (who won the America’s Cup for New Zealand in 1995 and successfully defended in 2000) and several other important Kiwi sailors, (including tactician Brad Butterworth and Grant Simmer). Apart from New Zealand, the Alinghi team consisted of members from: Germany, the United States, Canada, the Netherlands, France, Italy, Spain, the U.S. Virgin Islands, Portugal,Turkey, Ireland, the UK (from Scotland and Wales), Belgium, South Africa, Australia, Uruguay, Argentina, Denmark, Ecuador, and Switzerland.

Not only did they splurge on the team, they shelled out for boats (SUI-64, the race boat, and the SUI-75). They were developed specifically for the race by the Alinghi team in close collaboration with the École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne , were developed.

On March 2, 2003, Alinghi sailed to a 5-0 victory against Team New Zealand (ironic, huh) winning the America’s Cup. They were the first team to win the Cup on its first attempt. They were also the first European team since the 1851 inaugural race to return the Auld Mug.

Immediately prior to this, After winning they (via America’s Cup Management) changed the rules to prevent any team members from moving between teams until completion of the next America’s Cup (which as the holders, they could do) and promptly fired it winning Skipper Russell Coutts. The rule change prevented him for sailing for another team in the cup.

In the 2007 America’s Cup, the team had many highly experienced members including: Brad Butterworth as tactician, Jochen Schümann, Peter Holmberg, Ed Baird, Juan Vila, Jordi Calafat, Warwick Fleury, Simon Daubney, and Murray Jones. Although they did well in the Match Race, they were defeated by Emirates Team New Zealand in the second race, but won their final race, defending the America’s cup with 5 wins to Team New Zealand’s 2. They won their last race by only 1 second!

As a result of this win, the International Olympic Committee awarded them the Coupe Olympique, the Olympic Cup, in 2003. One of the highest honors in sports, it is awarded to awarded institutions or associations with a record of merit and integrity in actively developing the Olympic Movement.

Alas, we couldn’t see them race in this year’s cup (even though there’s been plenty of publicity about there only being two teams competing, why the race was different this year, and opinions of the changes) which just took place in San Francisco. The team was disbanded in July 2010,. Don’t worry, there is still lots of sailing on the lake. If you’re not in Geneva, there’s sailing on other lakes so you can see it in Zurich, Lugano and other cities too.

Hitting the Beach on the Baltic Sea in Estonia

Posted on September 24, 2013 by Schwingen In Switzerland

Located on the eastern coast of the Baltic Sea, Estonia has a coastline of 3700 meters. Surprisingly, the Baltic is not very salty and rather shallow, so it is warmer than you would expect. I’m not saying its bath water warm, but it’s not Lake Superior cold.

We traveled from Helsinki to Tallinn by boat in about an hour and a half. During the Cold War with Finland so close, the Soviet Union zealously guarded its western coast and Estonia became heavily militarized under communist rule. They were afraid people would defect. Also, large parts of the country were off-limits to all but the Soviet military.

With Finland so close, most of the sea shore was declared a “border zone” meaning they were heavily fortified and citizens were prohibited from entering the water. They monitored the sand to see if there was tracks headed out that did not return. Most beaches were forbidden for Estonians. No one could even travel to the beach on a summer day for some fresh air, non-residents required a permit to visit them.

Our guide told us that under communism this beach had barbed wire, concrete block observation posts (which must have been freezing in winter), other armaments and patrols. Today, they are hugely popular in the summer. Cool young Estonians and families flock to them to swim, play, cook out, camp, and watch the sunset.

It probably didn’t help that the Soviets had one of their three nuclear submarine training facilities not far from there in the city of Paldiski. Its nuclear reactors functioned continuously for twenty years. In addition to the nuclear submarine training center (complete with a full-scale model of a nuclear submarine with working nuclear reactors), it was a support base for the Soviet Baltic Fleet‘s submarines and several other large military bases. A former sailor on a submarine said “I’ve seen the whole world, just not above the water.”

The Soviet Union brought hundreds of thousands of Russian migrants to Estonia to assist with their militarization. This forced migration resulted in an increase of about half a million people in 45 years! The Soviets built Soviet-style buildings apartment buildings for them. The styles are nicknamed after the Premier in power at the time of construction. Apparently you want to live in a Stalin or a Khrushchev and not a Chernenko or a Gorbachev (they were actually General Secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party and/or President of the Soviet Union, not Premier), because the quality of the building materials degenerated. By the end, it was pretty shoddy. Once our guide pointed it out, it was easy to see the difference and tell when they were built by their state of decay.

After the end of the “Cold War” the facilities passed to Estonian control in 1994 after the last Russian troops left the country. These Russian Immigrants were given the choice of returning to Moscow or remaining. Many chose to remain in their apartment blocks in former military towns; they’d spent most of their lives there and didn’t want to leave their home. As a result, today there are pockets of people who haven’t integrated into Estonian society, don’t speak Estonian and don’t have employment as the bases closed. Ethnic tensions linger and it is a significant problem for Estonia.

From http://inspiringtravellers.com/

From it.wikipedia.org

from http://www.skyscrapercity.com

A Hidden Soviet Air Cemetery in an Estonian Forest (schwingeninswitzerland.wordpress.com)
Terriffic Tallinn (schwingeninswitzerland.wordpress.com)

A Hidden Soviet Air Cemetery in an Estonian Forest

Posted on September 10, 2013 by Schwingen In Switzerland

We saw some pretty cool sights in Estonia outside of Tallinn. The Soviet’s had large air base in Estonia. Between the base and the cluster of buildings that formed the town servicing it, a cemetery is located back in the woods. It’s obvious that they are the graves of airmen.

A large majority of the graves were unmarked. Our guide hadn’t figured out why. There is some ethnic tension between Estonians and the Russians who were moved here by the Soviet Union to towns where Soviet military facilities were located. After Estonian independence, many of these Russians stayed but have not integrated. Did they have plaques on them that widows took with them when they returned to Russia after the Cold War? Were the names and dates so secret that they were intentionally unmarked? Did the missions not “officially” exist? I had a lot of questions that our fantastic guide couldn’t answer. He hadn’t found any ethnic Russians who would talk with him about it. I joked about going door to door. He told me if they wouldn’t talk to an Estonian, they sure as heck weren’t going to talk to an American.

Hara Submarine Base in Hara, Estonia (atlasobscura.com)

Terriffic Tallinn

Posted on September 6, 2013 by Schwingen In Switzerland

Learning about Tallinn’s history I heard a phrase I haven’t heard since my high school Western Civilizations class, The Hanseatic League. Huh? What does that have to do with anything? Learning about it was pretty cool. The Hanseatic League was middlemen/traders. For about 500 years (from 1250-1750), they controlled most of the commerce in northern Europe.

Before the rise of powerful kings and the modern nation-state, local leaders ruled small fiefdoms, kingdoms, dukedoms and probably other –doms. Local governments were small and relatively weak. City dwellers were interested in trade, but paying taxes and tolls to each and every feudal overlord was excessive and impeded trade. Rulers and the various -doms were too small to develop an effective coordinated response to pirates on the seas. It was difficult to conduct any sort of large-scale commercial activity in such an environment.

Enter the Hanseatic League. Prominent merchants banded together, forming a merchant guild to defend themselves against pirates. They hired armies to protect their ships and ports. It worked well and they began establishing trading posts in abroad where they bargained with local leaders for discounts. The Hanse (which in German means trading guild) would trade fish from Scandinavia for grain from the Baltics or luxury goods from Flanders or English wool. It worked well and trade flourished. Everyone got something out of it and the League got rich off of their cut. Not only rich, in a time before strong nation states, they became powerful. In their heyday, they were a dominant force and stabilizing influence.

If it worked, what happened? Rising nation states, particularly their kings, didn’t want to compete for power and were jealous of the League’s wealth. Plus, the post-reformation religious wars tore apart old Hanseatic alliances. By the 16th century, trade moved decisively to the south and west as countries like Portugal, Italy, Spain and France set ships to explore and return with treasures from Africa and the Americas.

We took the ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn, Estonia. While it was a short ride, it had a culture that was distinct from Scandinavia, both Nordic and Russian. After the decline of the Hanseatic League, it experienced two centuries of Tsarist Russia rule before World War I and 45 years of communist rule after World War II. In September 1991, Estonia left the Soviet Union and declared independence (along with the three Baltic states of Latvia, and Lithuania). The U.S.S.R. recognized Estonia as being independent on September 6, 1991. In November Yeltsin issued a decree banning the Communist Party throughout Russia.

While independence was natural for many Estonians, it has an enormous Russian population, many of whose families came during communism and never fully integrated. Nevertheless, many Estonians think of themselves as part of the Nordic and European sphere and Estonia is part of the European Union.

It was a quick walk into the old town Tallinn from the ferry terminal and an easy cab ride to the airport. While we saw old wood buildings in the areas surrounding the old town, the walled city has an Old World ambience. Tallinn’s old town medieval center is amazingly well-preserved as there wasn’t a lot of building there during communism. The old town has watchtowers, colorfully painted medieval houses, cobblestoned lanes, and old Lutheran churches.

Tallinn, view (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Post-communism, Tallinn modernized quickly and prices have risen with the development. Even so, being used to Swiss prices, we almost cheered when we saw Tallinn’s rates. The food was great and we enjoyed dinners out, something we don’t do often in Geneva. We weren’t the only ones, the streets were filled with people eating, drinking and making merry. There was a general relaxed, happy summer vibe. Scandinavians, especially Swedes and Finns, come for a night away and cheap alcohol as it is very highly taxed in their home countries.

The Town hall of Tallinn, Estonia. Eesti: Tallinna raekoda. Français : L’hôtel de ville de Tallinn, en Estonie. Русский: Таллинская Ратуша. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Town Hall Square has served as a marketplace since the time of the Hanseatic League. The 15th century Town Hall dominates the square. There are lots of impressive churches like the Cathedral of Saint Mary o, but the best part about Tallinn is the Estonians who inhabit it and how well-preserved it is. Enjoy wandering the streets, talking to people and taking in all the details.

Tallinn Old Town (Toompea) (Photo credit: rlanvin)

What Do Finns Bring Back From Vacation?

Posted on September 1, 2013 by Schwingen In Switzerland

In Scandinavian countries, alcohol is HIGHLY taxed. Not surprisingly, they are always ready to take advantage of a deal on alcohol. He says that he’s never seen anything like the Swedes with an open bar. Yes, I realize that I’m overgeneralizing a bit here.

Alcohol is not taxed at the same high rate on the cruises and ferries in the Baltic. As a result, Booze cruises are popular and people take advantage of ferries to lower tax countries to buy alcohol. While waiting for our ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn, we saw people disembarking with their souvenirs.